Saturday, August 8, 2009

Laundry Day in the Loo

Saturday, August 8, 2009--approx 3:30pm, Phuket.

This morning I woke around 10am, ready to go to the beach--that was the plan last night, anyway. But, when I went downstairs to the pool, I was informed that everyone decided to stay in Phuket and wait out the rain. Some had already left for the market to get provisions. It's true that it has rained a lot--and unpredictably--the last couple days. One minute, there'll be blue skies, and the next it'll be pouring buckets! Since I haven't been to the beach, yet, I was pretty disappointed.

Knowing me, you might expect that I decided to go anyway, but I won't be doing that alone. Apparently, it's very dangerous for anyone (especially someone from America, because we drive on the wrong side of the road) to drive alone beyond Phuket. There are many scooter accidents on the roads leading to and from the beach. It is especially dangerous for a woman to go alone. Our guest speaker at school yesterday told us about a Swedish woman who had been raped and killed four years ago. She was taking the TEFL course.

Instead of the beach, I decided to catch up on laundry and get a few things done that I've put off for "later." I dug in my closet and sorted the things I'd wash myself, and separated them from the heavier clothes I'd take to "Mama's" laundry (one of many laundry services near the hotel, which washes your clothes and dries them outside). (Mind you, I haven't done laundry since I left the States--Ewwww!) I dodn't want to pay more than 30 THB for a load (they weigh your laundry and charge per kilo, so I'm really just guessing. Oh, a kilo is 2.2 pounds, by the way.), so most of my clothes, I'm going to wash myself.

I tossed the items to wash into the bathtub and turned on the cold water. After dinner last night, I had stopped in the 7-11 with Candice and George, and picked up some laundry detergent, so I sprinkled that in as well. The water got sudsy and dirty at the same time (my cotton ball, too, get filthy when I apply toner on my face and neck. I seem to be perpetually dirty and sweaty). I scrubbed stains with my nail scrubber against the tub, rubbed my clothes together, and lopped each article of clothing over the side.

Seemingly an hour later, I let the water drain and began the rinsing. Ringing out each skirt, tank top, dress, and panty, my hands became extremely sore. Women must have had the strongest hands ever, back in the day!! I think I'll just have to wash more often. Like do my undies and tank tops in the sink every day, or something. This would also save from the whole "splashing water all over the bathroom" problem.

Each tenant in Roongrawee Mansion was given about four hangers. Already, each of my hangers had at least two items draped on them. I removed each dry item and threw them in the closet, and took the hangers outside. It was sunny and breezy, so I hung my dresses and nice "going out" tank tops on hangers, but draped everything else over my balcony. Once done, I looked up to the temple across the trees. It was pouring rain, and the rain moved quickly toward the mansion grounds.

I grabbed as much as I could before the rain hit, but it soaked my dresses and button-down shirts (argh!). Two tank tops fell on the ground, and were immediately full of soot. Everything I'd draped on the balcony railing had rust spots on them (my white pants!!). I tossed everything back in the bathtub, and rinsed again. It was not a smart decision to hang my clothes outside.

Anyway, now everything is hung in the bathroom. I mopped the puddles of dirty rain water and soapy laundry water all over my room and bathroom, and now have two soaked towels and a wet bath mat. Unfortunately, the hotel staff cleaned my room yesterday, so I have to make due with the one towel I have left until next week.

Overall, though, I feel a sense of accomplishment. The process took me two hours--and who knows how long the clothes will take to dry--but it was worth it. Afterwards, I FINALLY did my toes and nails. I feel I deserve some beautification after being a wash-maid. Gotta have pretty piggies!Besides, George is taking us out to a restaurant and a club, where there are a lot of hot men (his words, not mine, so not sure if that's good for the heterosexual female).

On my way to this internet cafe, I stopped at Mama's and dropped off a conservative load of laundry. Tomorrow, I pick it up after 5pm. Maybe that'll be after the beach...? Or after clothes shopping (the backup plan), which is just as exciting!

Wednesday, August 5, 2009

Interim

Thursday, August 6, 2009--approx 9:00am, Phuket.

It's been five days since my last blog... I must repent. (that was for all my Catholic friends) ;)

Yesterday, I didn't have to teach, which meant I was free to do whatever I wanted after 12:30pm. And, although I had all day and tons of stuff I wanted to--needed to--get done (including posting a blog), I went back to my room to watch movies and sleep until this morning.

Why?! You might ask. When I have so much to experience and see and do, why is sleeping the first thing you do, once you have a chunk of free time? Well, I'll tell you: I chickened out. I was depressed. I felt lonely. I just wanted to hide... to pretend that I was somewhere familiar, near people who know me. I couldn't face myself, even, in a mirror.

I am okay now, and ready to talk about it... and I suppose it's normal and necessary to go through this phase when one leaves a place, leaves people. I think I remember it from when I moved from Nebraska, from Salisbury, and from Maryland... but it seemed different this time. More final. More distant. More pathetic.

Not knowing what has occured in the past few days, this blog may seem abrupt to you. And I promise to explain that which has kept me busy since Sunday... there's been so much! But now I must prepare for class, and for teaching this afternoon.

I hope you're all well. Much love from Thailand.

Friday, July 31, 2009

Catching up on Sleep


Saturday, August 1, 2009--approx 10:30am, Phuket.



Friday night, after blogging, I ended up at one of the upstairs bars on Khao San... where I was hit on by Nick from Holland (who looked like a blue-eyed Spaniard). What is it with Hollanders, I wonder? Anyway, he was so drunk, I kept having to repeat things like--my name--so I soon lost interest in the conversation. Never fear, though! A couple Aussies and I struck up a chat, and left the poor Spanish guy in the lurch.

At the same open-air bar where I'd hung out the night before, Marc, Cam (my grand father's name--yah!), and I watched the people on the street. So wrapped up were we in the night life, we didn't notice when a scraggle-haired woman sat at the next table. Suddenly, the rose-lady ran up to us, yelling "bag, bag, your bag!" Marc took off down the street, and chased Scraggle-hair. It was his bag. He did retreive it. Rose-lady witnessed many Thais slapping and kicking Scraggle-hair for her attempted theft. She told us with enthusiasm, but I didn't want to look. I felt a weird combination of sympathy and righteousness about the whole situation. After drinking more, Cam hired a tuk-tuk to drive us around.

Between the two Aussies, I watched strings of lights and heard unfamiliar voices whiz by. It was surreal and enchanting. I thought for a moment, "what if I don't go to Phuket?" I could just forget about going to school, getting the teaching certificate, and traveling around Southeast Asia. I could just cancel my flight to Phuket and stay in Bangkok. I could party, maybe find some place to bartend. I could forget about everything that brought me here in the first place. Then... then I could go back to the States and see about a boy.

But I couldn't. I wouldn't know how to face myself once the fog had cleared--once the light entered my room.

Back at the hotel, I had already packed, so I just changed and dragged my bags to the street to hail a taxi. I negotiated 300 THB (around $10. USD) for the ride to the airport. (This, by the way, is half of what the hotel would have charged me to book a taxi through them.) At the airport, I waited with other young people in line--all still tipsy--including two girls I had seen at the upstairs bar earlier that night.

Once at the counter, I placed my bags on the conveyer belt.
"These over 15 kilo," the attendant told me in broken English.
"How much is that in pounds?" I asked, intending to take things out until I was under 15 kilos.
She looked at me blankly.
"In pounds? How many?" I repeated.
She shook her head and pointed to another counter.
"You pay there."
At the other counter, I waited in the wrong line for 20 minutes. And, when I finally paid, it was 1,600 THB (around $50 USD). From this experience, I learned some things:

1) I need to learn the conversion from kilos to pounds.
2) I must get rid of as much stuff as possible before my return flight.
3) Since taking a domestic flight has different restrictions than taking international flights, I must be more aware next time. Or, I should take another form of transportation.
4) Going through checkin in a foreign country after drinking REALLY SUCKS!

I slept on the 40 minute flight to Phuket. Chris (director of the TEFL course in Phuket) met me in front of the airport with one of those cards that had my name on it. He put me in a taxi, gave me the money for the fare, and gave me a map to help the driver. I slept on the ride into Phuket Town. The driver took me to Roongrawee Mansion, my hotel and my home for the next four weeks. I was shown to my room at 10am, and slept until 6pm.

Thursday, July 30, 2009

Going out on Khao San Road

Friday, July 31--approx 12:30am, Bangkok time.

I can hear the beat of the clubs in this little glass hut. Across from me is the (not working) pool and sun deck, but it's midnight in Bangkok, so it's dark...



Today, I decided to walk beyond this area, to tour just a little. I walked across the great courtyard between the two palaces, which--depending on the ruler--have been used intermittenly for rice paddy demonstrations, festivals, the city market, and the ploughing ceremony. Beyond the courtyard, I was going to walk as far as I could to the Canal, but a small garden spot caught my eye.



Entering into the little gated area, I took pictures of a bejeweled shrine for Rama I. While inspecting the spired building behind the shrine, a woman came up to me. She's from Chaing Mai, and is on holiday in Bangkok for the weekend. Bless her heart, she took it upon herself to tell me what I should see on this one day in Bangkok.



My angel guide marked my map, circling three places I should go, including the Sleeping Buddha temple, some fabric place where I could get something hand-tailored, and the Golden Mountain. Circling these things, she wrote in Thai. Guiding me to the street, she hailed a tuk-tuk for me and negotiated my little tour with the driver. I am so thankful to this woman for taking the initiative! So, though I could only understand some of what she said, I know that if my adventures take me there; I will look her up in Chaing Mai. Hopefully there is only one hospital there, and that I can easily find her. She is a "baby doctor."



The tuk-tuk driver did take me to the Sleeping Buddha temple, but they were cleaning it and it closed before I could see the actual Buddha. This is okay, because I plan to visit again, and the grounds were so beautiful, I was caught up in taking pictures anyway. In the tuk-tuk, I was choked with smog and fumes (I totally understand why many Thai walk around with face masks!), but enjoyed zooming through the congested traffic. We weren't as nimble as the motorcycles or bicycles, but it was fun to be just inches from other vehicles, and within chatting distance to other tuk-tuk passengers.



The stop at the fabric store was somewhat pointless. It would have been nice to purchase 100% silk, but I'm not ready to shop yet--a feeling that is foreign to me! But it's difficult not to feel obligated to shop. Anyway, I quickly ran out of the shop, after being followed around every corner by the salesman. I hate it when people hover!



After the shop escape, my driver asked me to go into a tourist center. If I booked something, I would get a coupon for gas, which I would give to him. Unfortunately, I didn't understand at the time why I was in the Center and, upon telling the agent that my tuk-tuk driver wanted me to come in for "a coupon or something," she promptly told me they were all gone, and to have a good day.



My last stop never happened because the tuk-tuk driver said the Golden Mountain was closed. I can't help but think he was just tired of driving me around... and was upset that I didn't get him a gas coupon.



Oh well! Back on Khao San Road, I looked around, sort of determined to buy something. But I didn't. Instead, I went to sleep, and will now go out.

Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Staying over in Bangkok

Thursday, July 30, 2009--approx 2pm, Bangkok time.

On the flight to Bangkok from Tokyo, I slept. It was my intention to gaze down on the lights of Bangkok--to be in awe of it and my new experience--but this romantic idea was soon abolished when the toll of the last few days hit me in the Tokyo airport. This is different than I imagined it would be.

The fact that things are different than I imagined does not surprise me. What surprises me, really, is that I haven't been surprised at anything so far. I have been prepared to be amazed, confused, displaced... but I haven't felt that way at all. Rather, I have enbraced easily the exchange of the Thai baht (currency), the street vendors, the hookers and backpackers, and the nightlife. Despite my lack of research, I feel totally comfortable making decisions in this "strange and foreign" land.

But, perhaps, because Thailand (Bangkok specifically) is so integrated, I should not feel so smug. Everything here has an English translation, and I have not felt secluded because I speak only English (an ignorance about which I'm quite embarassed, and must often forgive myself). The area I'm in (Khao San Road, north Old City) caters to English-speaking foreigners, as do the transit and hotel industries.

I came in last night by cab (taximeter) from the Suvarnabhumi airport. It cost me about 300 THB (approx 10 USD), which dropped me off at the end of the street. Khao San Road is blocked off at night from motor vehicles, due to the street partying, and only tuk tuks (tiny open trucks with 2-row seating) are allowed entrance. As I rolled my luggage through the groups of partiers, food carts, vendors, advertisers, and hookers, it reminded me of New Orleans. Music and people hang from balconies and rooftops, giving the atmosphere a general sense of celebration. Sorry, folks; I didn't see any flashing.

I'm staying at the D&D Inn, a haven for young partiers and backpackers. It's slap in the middle of Khao San Road, which is known for its many shops and street vendors. Luckily, the D&D has one of the biggest signs on the street. Otherwise it might have blended in with the myriad other signs, arrows, and neon. The entrance is down one of the many alleyways, which leads straight through the lobby, then out the other way to the cross-alley behind the building, where more shops and bars are lined up.

I had selected the hotel from my "Top 10" guidebook I read on the flight from Tokyo (before I fell asleep), which noted it is a "great place to meet people" and, although I had intended to go straight to bed when I got here, I became exhilarated with the excitement on the street. Bangkok nightlife rages on until the wee hours. Khao San is packed with bars, signs, posters, people, smells (both delicious and disgusting), and... trash.

I stuck mostly around the strip, but did venture off for a little bit (with Chang Lite in hand). I promptly got lost, but kept my cool, and found my way back to the Khao San, where I met Renee from Holland.

My timer is running out on the internet cafe computer, so I'll tell you more later... time to do the tourist thing.